Executive Care Inc.

Aug 09 Landscape Survival Guide (Pt 4)

Welcome to our fourth and final edition of “Landscape Survival Guide.” In May we discussed how to keep your Fescue lawn green and healthy with less water, by using a combination of Mycorrhizea and Turface. In June we introduced two new lawns, Buffalo Grass and Native Bentgrass, and discussed the water saving benefits, plus the other advantages these lawns have over Fescue; and in July, we spoke about the features of the MP rotor nozzles for lawns, not only because of the water savings, but also its design that allows for better coverage. So if any of these topics interest you, please go to our website at www.executivecareinc.com to read them (prior to this, we did a series on landscaping and maintenance).

There are two ways to basically water planters, sprinklers (you can also use MP rotor nozzles) and variations of drip irrigation. Since drip irrigation seems to be the most misunderstood, and consequently most incorrectly used, let’s see if we can shed some light on having a viable drip system. A drip system is comprised of a valve, ½” drip line to carry the water through the planter and ¼” tubing to take it to the plant. Sounds simple, and it is supposed to be, but we sure struggle with getting it right, even installers do it incorrectly (I am currently on a job in a very upscale neighborhood and have found several critical errors). Let’s start at the plant and work backwards. I can not tell you how many systems I have seen that have only one emitter per plant. Why would someone install only one emitter when the goal of the drip system is to water evenly and deeply, as opposed to onesided? A healthy plant needs to grow roots on all sides. Roots will stay close to the source of water; hence with only one emitter, it causes poor and imbalanced rooting. As mentioned, the property we are retrofitting right now has a landscape that is 10 years old; it can be divided into two general sections, the plants around the lawn, and the plants separate from the lawn. The plants around the lawn look relatively okay, they are benefitting from lawn runoff, but the plants separate from the lawn look stressed, and stunted. The landscape is ten years old, but judging by the size of the plants, I would have guessed it to be only three years old. I can also see where several plants have died. The system is set up exactly as what I am telling you not to do, with one emitter.

The next concern is the placement of the emitter on the drip system. Again on this yard, the emitter is placed on the ½” drip tubing with the ¼” tubing attached to it going to the plant. So what’s wrong with that, you might ask. Glad you asked. The emitter’s job is to reduce the flow of the water so it “drips” on the earth and soaks in. When the emitter is on the ½” tube, the water pressure has been extremely reduced, and now has to travel, sometimes up hill, a specific distance to the plant. That is not what we want, we want the water to come racing out of the ½” tubing going through the ¼” coupler into the ¼” tubing and BE STOPPED by the emitter; which will reduce the flow to a strong drip or stream. While working on the property we did an experiment, we got two empty cups, took an existing drip line with the emitter on the ½” tubing, then corrected another line with the coupler on the ½” tubing and the emitter at the end of the ¼” line. We put the incorrect line into cup “A,” and the cor rected one in cup “B.” We turned on the valve, and at the end of two minutes, cup “A” was 1/3 full and cup “B” was 2/3 full; that’s 1/3 more water. Imagine watering 25 to 35 minutes, which is the average run time for drips, what the difference would be, it’s huge; and then one emitter versus two! No wonder why plants are so “tired” looking.

So now we have discussed from the plant to the ½” line, is there something more? Yes, the emitter type, the gallons per hour (gph) and the valve size. The emitters need to be pressure compensating, meaning that the same amount of water comes out of the drip emitter closest to the valve as well as the one farthest from the valve. This is crucial. The gph is also critical. Different size and types of plants require different amounts of water; so knowing the plant material is important. Lastly, the valve size. It is determined by the amount of ½” tubing and plant material that needs to be sup ported. I commented briefly on this in the last editorial. I often see valves that are “stretched,” too much tubing, too great a distance and too many plants (this is typical of the low bid). I can help you with proper drip con nection and type, so that you are aware, but gph and valve sizing is harder to explain. More than anything, I am making you aware that there is a right way and a wrong way to install a drip system, and it makes all the difference to the health and well being of the landscape. So when you receive bids from landscapers, ask them what is they’re procedure for drip irrigation; how does the water get to the plant. You may not understand gph and valve sizing, but you can go out and inspect the drip system. Starting at the point closest to the valve put a cup under the drip emitter, and then go to the farthest point of that valve and do the same. Make sure you use the same gph emitter, normally they are color coded. Have the landscaper run the valve until the first cup is full and then stop (make sure you note the time it took to fill the first cup). Compare the two cups; if there is more than a twentyfive percent difference, then you know the system is stretched.

Remember the old adage, “you get what you pay for;” do not short cut the infrastructure of your landscape. It would be better to have a landscape done in 1 gallon plants and 5 gallon trees, hence reducing both labor and material cost, than to compromise on the irrigation. A landscape done in these sizes admittedly will look small, but the plants will grow. Conversely, bigger plants on a poor irrigation system will not, they will look stressed, develop poorly, and be prone to insects. So I hope I have shed some light on a “dark” subject. For any concerns regarding this topic; or on converting lawns over to MP rotor nozzles (which so many lawns need with all the brown spots I have been seeing) or landscaping needs in general, please call us; we would be glad to help. For my next editorial, in appreciation of the community’s support, I would like to do a question and answer edition. Please email your questions to me at exec4u@executivecareinc. com by August 15th. Now as always, thank you for reading our articles, and good gardening!

If you are a doityourselfer please use this article as a guide, and if you need help please do not hesitate to call Executive Care Landscape Manage ment, Inc. at (916) 7659040 or visit our website www.executivecareinc.com. Executive Care Landscape Management, Inc. is a local full service landscape design/install and maintenance company.